In Brief

RIFM-Led Study Shows QRA Is Effective

The Quantitative Risk Assessment for assessing sensitivity to fragrance ingredients is an “effective, predictive” tool for the prevention of fragrance contact allergy and “with continued use, should show a downward trend” in allergy incidence, the International Fragrance Association says in a May 17 release promoting a newly published evaluation of the QRA approach by a team of researchers. The team, led by Dr. Anne Marie Api, RIFM VP of human health sciences, compared the QRA, a threshold-based approach to sensitization, against clinical data (patch-test results from dermatology clinics) and established IFRA standards for three fragrance ingredients – cinnamic aldehyde, citral and isoeugenol. If the QRA approach had been available at the time the standards for the fragrance ingredients were established, the clinical response might have been “noticeably” improved, the researchers say. They say contact sensitization QRA for fragrance ingredients should be used in combination with clinical results from the dermatology community and company-specific post-market surveillance data to confirm the effectiveness of fragrance ingredient use limits. QRA, which has been used since 2005 to set IFRA standards for fragrance materials, has incited disagreement between IFRA's Research Institute for Fragrance Materials and industry reps (Also see "RIFM, European Scientists Work To Iron Out Differences On QRA Methodology" - HBW Insight, 27 Oct, 2008.).

Animal-Alt Test Gets Nod From Panel

The LUMI-CELL assay, an alternative method, may be useful in identifying substances with the potential to affect the function of the estrogen receptor (ER), says a 16-member independent international peer review panel in a report on the National Toxicology Program's website. The panel's assessment, which agreed with draft test method recommendations from the NTP's Interagency Coordinating Committee on the Validation of Alternative Methods, was reached after a March 29-30 meeting. LUMI-CELL appears to provide advantages over a similar ER test used by the Environmental Protection Agency. The panel also made recommendations for future studies that could enhance the usefulness of the method. ICCVAM is accepting public comments on the panel report, and will consider those comments, as well as the panel's feedback, in preparing final test method recommendations that will be forwarded to ICCVAM member agencies later this year. In October 2004, ICCVAM recommended validation of LUMI-CELL be designated as high priority (Also see "Lumi-Cell Endocrine Disruptor Test Validation Supported By ICCVAM" - HBW Insight, 25 Oct, 2004.).

Aubrey Organics Founder Passes

Aubrey Hampton, natural hair- and skin-care pioneer, died on May 9 after a brief illness, according to Aubrey Organics’ website. “Aubrey paved the way for a fledging natural products industry by making plant-based, synthetic-free personal-care products on his own terms,” the firm says. Hampton’s connection to natural ingredients was forged in southern Indiana where his father had an organic farm and his mother made her own herbal beauty products. Hampton went on to build the multi-national hair-, skin- and body-care brand that bears his name, published three books and literary magazine Organica, and led a second career as an award-winning playwright and theatre producer. He is survived by his two sons, sister and large Aubrey Organics family.

ESSENCE African-American Beauty Study

In its fourth study in the Smart Beauty series, the media firm found that African-American women are a segmented group, with four distinct archetypes. Of 800 women, 31% fit the “Queen Bea” persona, seeking premium products, organics, naturals and brands with proven results. Representing 30% of respondents are the trendsetters, or what ESSENCE terms the “Sheree de la Sol” group, who use beauty as a platform of success and achievement, zeroing in on the newest products such as anti-aging creams and lengthening mascaras. Women seeking products specifically created for their needs, along with attractive price points and value, represent 29% of the group and fit the “Amber B. Free” profile as an “independent spirit very proud of her culture,” ESSENCE President Michelle Ebanks said in an April 18 interview. The smallest group is “Jane Jones,” or minimalist consumers who seek simple options due to lack of time for beauty in their busy schedules. “An African-American woman is the most engaged consumer,” concluded Ebanks. “But she wants marketers to speak to her mindset and recognize that not all African-Americans are the same.”