Dermatologist Profiles 12 “Most Exciting” Natural Ingredients In Anti-Aging

Consumers who want natural personal care but do not want to sacrifice performance may be drawn to products containing one or more of the 12 "most exciting" natural ingredients being used in anti-aging cosmeceuticals, profiled by dermatologist Jeanette Jacknin at SupplySide West in Las Vegas, Nev.

"This year, with the whole world going 'green' and searching for natural ingredients, nutri-cosmeceuticals made from food and plant ingredients are definitely 'in,'" Jacknin said during an Oct. 23 session.

Used medicinally in ancient China and classical Greece, pomegranate is a powerful antioxidant with an oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC) value of 10,500, Jacknin said.

Pomegranate is becoming increasingly prominent in the cosmeceutical and natural realms, she said, citing Murad and Burt's Bees as two companies including the ingredient in product formulations for its anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties. Oral pomegranate and a combination of topical and oral pomegranate have both been documented in double-blind clinical trials to be effective, Jacknin noted.

Soybeans also have demonstrated anti-aging properties, the dermatologist said. Topical soy has been used to address hyper-pigmentation, to improve elasticity and to moisturize the skin; Solbar and SunOpta use soy in their cosmetic preparations, according to Jacknin.

Coffeeberry, extracted from the fleshy cherry or casing around the coffee bean, has been shown to smooth skin and even skin tone while reducing the appearance of fine lines, she said. Another ingredient rich in antioxidants, coffeeberry has an ORAC value of 16,000.

Stiefel Laboratories features coffeeberry in its Revaleskin anti-aging cream (¹ (Also see "Stiefel Uses Coffee Berry, Connetics Buy To Close In On Aesthetic Market" - HBW Insight, 15 Jan, 2007.), p. 8). "Expect many more companies to incorporate this valuable ingredient soon," Jacknin said.

Small, bright-orange sea buckthorn berries, with their high vitamin C content and 22 fatty acids, have been cherished for centuries for their healing properties in India and Asia; now Western cosmeceuticals manufacturers are looking to capitalize on the berry's effectiveness in treating burns, rosacea, acne and eczema.

Aubrey Organics offers a Sea Buckthorn Moisturizing Cream, as well as a Rejuvanating Antioxidant Serum that contains the ingredient.

Rooibos tea plant - the only natural source of the unique anti-allergenic polyphenol - is a valuable treatment for sensitive dry skin owing to its anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory benefits, Jacknin said.

The evodia fruit, native to North Korea and China and an astringent proven in the treatment of acne, is used by DERMAdoctor in its Ain't Misbehavin Medicated Emergency Acne Spot Treatment. Formulators should take into account, however, that herbalists consider evodia fruit to be slightly toxic, Jacknin cautioned, and it should not be used by pregnant women.

The grape-like acai fruit, which saw a boost in popularity after being named the "#1 superfood" by Oprah, contains a "remarkable" concentration of antioxidants with an ORAC of 20,000.

Already in formulations by Perricone MD and Skinceuticals , the acai fruit contains vitamins, minerals and phytosterols that help stimulate skin cell and collagen growth. Jacknin warned manufacturers, however, that topical products should contain only a modest amount of acai, "as a high concentration of it will stain the skin and hair."

Goji berries, with their high antioxidant levels (ORAC 20,200), 18 fatty acids, 29 amino acids and vitamin C, can be found in Murad's Redness Therapy and Pangea Organics ' Deep Cleansing Mask.

Mangosteen, known as "Queen of all Fruit" because of its high antioxidant levels, has been used in soap, acne and anti-aging products in Asia for years and is now used in Borba 's Mangosteen Atomizer mist. XanGo's Glimpse Intuitive Skin Care is also mangosteen-based (² (Also see "Marketing In Brief" - HBW Insight, 20 Oct, 2008.), Marketing In Brief).

Brown algae laminaria and blue-green algae chlorella may inhibit the formation of cellulite, Jacknin noted, and spirulina - a simple, one-cell plant composed of 65 percent protein and containing over 100 vitamins, minerals and fatty acids - has shown promise as an immune-system-booster.

Algae-containing products currently on the market include Murad's Refreshing Cleanser, Bliss 's Serious Seaweed Cellulite Soap and Peter Thomas Roth 's Rich Intensive Anti-Aging Crème, the dermatologist said.

- Louisa Tavlas ([email protected])