Donna Karan Warms Fragrance Category With Black Cashmere
This article was originally published in The Rose Sheet
Executive Summary
Donna Karan Cosmetics is introducing Black Cashmere women's fragrance in September to build upon the equity of its successful Cashmere Mist fragrance franchise, licensee Estee Lauder said
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Donna Karan Cosmetics is introducing Black Cashmere women's fragrance in September to build upon the equity of its successful Cashmere Mist fragrance franchise, licensee Estee Lauder said. Black Cashmere, however, is not an extension of the Cashmere Mist lineup, but an entirely new concept, Lauder is quick to point out. "We have a huge market with Cashmere Mist of all ages, of all demographics," Senior VP, General Manager Jane Hertzmark said. "We have an opportunity to turn all of those customers on to Black Cashmere." Since debuting in 1994, the Cashmere Mist business has been growing double digits, the exec stated. To further capitalize on the strength of the brand, Donna Karan will introduce Black Cashmere in department store doors where Cashmere Mist is ranking one, two or three, according to VP Sales and Marketing of Aramis and Designer Fragrances Carol Russo. "That will be very beneficial to the overall business," Russo said. "It will make it a Donna Karan destination." Black Cashmere will debut in 750 department and specialty stores doors, the exec noted, adding that it is unlikely distribution will exceed 1,000 doors. The introduction of Black Cashmere marks the first fragrance to debut under Donna Karan since the launch of the DKNY men's and women's fragrance duo in 2000 (1 (Also see "DKNY Fragrance Duo Highlighted By Brand's Premiere TV Ad Campaign" - HBW Insight, 7 Aug, 2000.), p.8). It is also the first launch since Lauder's competitor LVMH acquired the Donna Karan fashion business in December (2 'The Rose Sheet' Dec. 3, 2001, In Brief.) Black Cashmere will be supported with a national print ad campaign breaking in October beauty and lifestyle books such as Vogue, Harper's Bazaar and Vanity Fair, Russo noted. Ads, shot by photographer Mikael Janssen, "are all about the sensuality between a man and a woman," Hertzmark said. The ads feature a couple interacting, the woman dressed in black cashmere, according to Lauder. Sampling will also provide integral support for the launch, Russo said. During the initial launch period, Donna Karan will distribute between 20 mil. and 30 mil. scented impressions, Russo said. Additionally, the firm will distribute about 4 mil. samples of the fragrance and its body lotion ancillary in different forms, she added. In order to minimize cannibalization of other Donna Karan fragrance business, the Lauder division also will initiate an "aggressive" program to maintain momentum behind Cashmere Mist, including the distribution of 90 mil. scented blow-in cards. Targeting female fragrance shoppers ages 30 and older, Black Cashmere was inspired by Donna Karan's fashion collection in which cashmere has played an important role, Lauder said. The launch marks an effort by Karan to "get back" to her heritage, the firm added. The fragrance notes, inspired by Karan's personal travels to "far off lands" open with notes of rare saffron, masala spices and white pepper CO2. Nuances of clove, nutmeg and pimento berries give way to mid-notes of patchouli singapour, red marechal rose and Ethiopian guggul incense. Heartnotes include wengue wood, bois de miel and Maltese labdanum drops. The fragrance bottle, designed by Karan's late husband Steven Weiss, resembles a polished black river stone, and was created to be "sensual in the hand," thus reflecting the fragrance's emphasis on luxury and sensuality, according to the firm. The fragrance will be available in 1.7 oz. and 3.4 oz. edp sprays for $52 and $75, respectively, the company said. Ancillaries bowing at the time of launch will mirror the Cashmere Mist ancillary lineup. Black Cashmere ancillary products will include Shower Gel ($35 for 6.7 oz.), Body Lotion ($40 for 6.7 oz.) and Body Crème ($45 for 5 oz.), as well as a Black Cashmere Candle ($35 for 5 oz.). Additional ancillaries are scheduled to bow in spring 2003, including a deodorant and body exfoliator, the exec added. There currently are no plans to expand the line with a men's offering, although it remains a possibility, Hertzmark said. Cashmere Mist has never been expanded with a male counterpart, though several other Donna Karan fragrances, including DKNY, offer a men's components. Estee Lauder acquired the Donna Karan beauty license in 1998 (3 (Also see "In Brief: Estee Lauder/Donna Karan" - HBW Insight, 17 Nov, 1997.), In Brief). |