Cannabidiol (CBD) represents an intriguing opportunity for cosmetics, without the statutory obstacles faced by food and dietary supplement companies. Cosmetics marketers are taking advantage, but the FDA’s recent warning letter blitz is a reminder that CBD-infused beauty products are bound by the same rules that apply to other cosmetics.

House Energy & Commerce Committee Chairman Frank Pallone underscores FDA’s lack of resources and insufficient “regulatory tools” in a memo to Health Subcommittee members going into a 4 December hearing on cosmetics safety issues. The committee’s last hearing on the subject was in 2012 when Pallone unveiled the first version of his Cosmetics Safety Enhancement Act.

Manufacturers of hair finishing sprays, no-rinse shampoos and personal fragrance products – eg, perfumes, colognes and body sprays – face significant reformulation challenges under a draft proposal from California’s Air Resources Board that contemplates fewer category impacts, but deeper VOC cuts, compared with previous considerations to help meet state-wide pollution-reduction goals.

Federal preemption of state and local requirements that differ from federal mandates came up repeatedly at the House Energy & Commerce Health Subcommittee’s 4 December cosmetics hearing. Meanwhile, both NGO and industry stakeholders generally support FDA review of cosmetic ingredients, but the details of such a framework likely will be contentious as work progresses.

House Energy & Commerce Committee Chairman Frank Pallone underscores FDA’s lack of resources and insufficient “regulatory tools” in a memo to Health Subcommittee members going into a 4 December hearing on cosmetics safety issues. The committee’s last hearing on the subject was in 2012 when Pallone unveiled the first version of his Cosmetics Safety Enhancement Act.

The proposed bill in the US Senate could be seen as slightly friendlier to the cosmetics industry when it comes to continued use of animal testing data in limited, exempted contexts, compared with similar state laws enacted of late. But the federal bill includes stiffer penalties, addresses “cruelty free” labeling, and seeks to spur FDA acceptance of alternative test methods, a key objective for stakeholders overall.

Tarte admits no wrongdoing in its settlement with nationwide purchasers of its “high performance naturals,” and it put up little fight in order to minimize costs. Insight remains limited as to whether federal courts agree with plaintiffs that general “natural” claims on cosmetic products – as opposed to “all natural” or “100% natural” assertions – mean no synthetic ingredients at all.

US lawmakers and even two FTC commissioners are critical of the agency’s proposed settlement with skin-care marketer Sunday Riley, which allegedly misled consumers for almost two years with sham product reviews posted to Sephora.com. According to Venable partner Alexandra Megaris, the company isn’t exactly getting off easy, and broader industry compliance is likely to improve as a result.

Eighteen plaintiffs seeking nationwide class certification may proceed with their suit alleging that Monat hair-care products, deceptively advertised as anti-aging solutions, actually cause hair loss. A US district judge on 23 October largely denied Monat’s motion to dismiss, while noting that plaintiffs may have difficulty proving that the company’s products are to blame for their injuries.

Coty is confident that it can build Kylie Cosmetics into a global powerhouse. However, some analysts have misgivings about the firm’s heavy investment in a celebrity brand, questioning whether its success could be a fad and noting Coty’s “poor track record” with acquisitions overall.

Leadership assured analysts on 6 November that Coty's Professional Beauty and Brazilian businesses are strong performers of high interest to potential acquirers, unlike Younique. Coty recently sold its majority stake in the social selling company back to its founders at a price that raised eyebrows.

Canadian extraction specialist Neptune, which has transitioned from marine-based oils for the nutrition market to focus on cannabis opportunities, says its budding Forest Remedies line could expand to more than 100 hemp-derived cosmetic, dietary supplement and home-care products under a recently announced collaboration with International Flavors & Fragrances.

Farah Ahmed, president and CEO of the Fragrance Creators Association, discusses the trade group’s expansion in recent years beyond immediate regulatory and legislative concerns to a platform for robust member collaboration in the name of positively impacting the world.

P&G approach to advertising for SK-II skin care drove double-digit sales growth in new users and prompted a 27% increase in searches for the line. P&G has saved $1bn from cost-cutting in ad agencies and advertising implemented over past five years, says chief brand officer Marc Pritchard.

Africa represents a new frontier for health and beauty firms. With significant economic growth and a population explosion forecast for the continent, now is the perfect time to start thinking about the Africa opportunity, market expert Ben Longman told the recent Ceuta International Conference.

On the bright side in North America, the Revlon brand has reclaimed its lead in the US mass lip segment, and both Revlon and Almay are off to strong starts in the fourth quarter, company leadership says. The firm continues to build the international and digital sides of its business in search of sustainable growth outside of Elizabeth Arden.

Analysts believe Henkel is a top contender to acquire Coty’s professional hair-care business, which ranks second in the world after L’Oreal’s, with Henkel’s a distant third. According to Kline’s Carrie Mellage, the DevaCurl deal shows the German firm’s enduring appetite for M&A following a series of similarly small, US-focused purchases in recent years that could be leading to something much larger.

The German firm’s sales increased 6% over the first nine months of fiscal 2019, led by La Prairie luxury, but its mass-market business remains a strategic priority. Bigger digital investments, natural skin-care launches and a sharpened focus on Nivea development in China should help spur growth in the segment.

Canadian extraction specialist Neptune, which has transitioned from marine-based oils for the nutrition market to focus on cannabis opportunities, says its budding Forest Remedies line could expand to more than 100 hemp-derived cosmetic, dietary supplement and home-care products under a recently announced collaboration with International Flavors & Fragrances.

Colgate says ‘premiumization’ of its oral care products in North America should drive improved product mix and pricing; higher-end offerings will include a recyclable Tom’s of Maine toothpaste tube and a Colgate Optic White offering. North American Q3 sales grew 1.2% to $869m.

Farah Ahmed, president and CEO of the Fragrance Creators Association, discusses the trade group’s expansion in recent years beyond immediate regulatory and legislative concerns to a platform for robust member collaboration in the name of positively impacting the world.

Cannabidiol (CBD) represents an intriguing opportunity for cosmetics, without the statutory obstacles faced by food and dietary supplement companies. Cosmetics marketers are taking advantage, but the FDA’s recent warning letter blitz is a reminder that CBD-infused beauty products are bound by the same rules that apply to other cosmetics.

Manufacturers of hair finishing sprays, no-rinse shampoos and personal fragrance products – eg, perfumes, colognes and body sprays – face significant reformulation challenges under a draft proposal from California’s Air Resources Board that contemplates fewer category impacts, but deeper VOC cuts, compared with previous considerations to help meet state-wide pollution-reduction goals.

Firm says "we refuse to be bullied into a settlement" and FTC conflates legal MLMs with pyramid schemes by alleging every MLM paying incentives "for recruitment of participants” is a pyramid scheme. Separate firm supplying ingredient for brain health supplement agreed to settlement of FTC false ad complaint.

US lawmakers and even two FTC commissioners are critical of the agency’s proposed settlement with skin-care marketer Sunday Riley, which allegedly misled consumers for almost two years with sham product reviews posted to Sephora.com. According to Venable partner Alexandra Megaris, the company isn’t exactly getting off easy, and broader industry compliance is likely to improve as a result.

The British independent ad regulator ruled on 9 October on a complaint regarding Neal’s Yard Remedies’ claims about promoting bee population health through charitable donations from its Bee Lovely product sales. Industry should be on notice that the ASA is actively fielding complaints about consumer-product companies’ environmental claims.