The iconic sunscreen brand aims to capitalize on growing demand for mineral sunscreens – widely perceived as consumers’ safest option in sun defense – by positioning offerings that contain mixes of mineral and chemical UV filters as “mineral-based,” according to a suit filed in December in California federal court.

California federal courts have shown themselves receptive to proposed class actions alleging that purported cosmetics carrying unapproved drug claims violate the state’s Unfair Competition Law. Plaintiffs now are testing similar theories in suits against marketers of CBD-infused topical products.

Industry advocates working to support GRASE determinations for eight UV filters are faced with a dilemma. They would like to share nonpublic studies with the FDA on a confidential basis – at least to get initial temperature readings from the agency as to the studies’ usefulness in addressing data gaps – but under the current OTC monograph framework, no such pathway exists.

The German firm’s sales increased 6% over the first nine months of fiscal 2019, led by La Prairie luxury, but its mass-market business remains a strategic priority. Bigger digital investments, natural skin-care launches and a sharpened focus on Nivea development in China should help spur growth in the segment.